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Yearly Archives

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Monday Night Special: Chopsticks and Elbows

November 14, 2009 | Frank Bonanno

My favorite shift at the Osteria is Sunday nights, when Alex roasts the pigs. I love the way the rotisserie glows yellow and flares to orange when the fat hits the fire; the way suckling pig draws families and couples and foodies down the stairs and into the dining room; the way the pork smells
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For an Amazing Cheese Plate

October 13, 2009 | Frank Bonanno

Last night, I had an amazing platter at Sushi Sasa—all of the kitchen elements worked in harmony: the caliber of chefs; the freshness, temperature, and perfectly sliced fish; the quality of rice and simplicity in seasoning. . . That sushi plate got me to thinking about meat and cheese plates, because the same components can
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God I Love a Reuben

September 17, 2009 | Frank Bonanno

For a long, long time now, I’ve wanted to put a Reuben on the panini menu at the Osteria(O-stir-eeeee-ah). Finally, last week I was craving one for myself so badly I took action. No, it’s not a distinctly Italian sandwich–but I will give Marco this one because of the artistry in every single element executed
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The Luxury of Comfort Food (BLT’s & Ramen & Such)

September 5, 2009 | Frank Bonanno

My favorite meals, and the most consistently popular ones at the restaurants, are tweaked versions of ultimate comfort foods–the Lobster Mac ‘n Cheese on the Mizuna menu, the BLT I recently wrote about, the Froot Loops soft serve ice cream at Bones. A couple of years ago, a food writer asked me if I could
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BLT on Mizuna September Menu

September 3, 2009 | Frank Bonanno

I posted my ideas on the perfect BLT a couple of weeks ago. Here’s Tony’s twist. My favorite part: J Hill Farms raised a breed of tomato with a flavor profile designed to specifically compliment pork. We all taste-tested it. Unbelievable, slightly smokey, intensely moist and firm-skinned. Brioche beneath, cubed belly above, tender new arugula
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Harvest Ravioletta with Brown Butter

August 29, 2009 | Frank Bonanno

When I’m making dinner for a group, I always include a pasta course–the simpler the better (4 ingredients or so)–and it seems there’s always something fresh to pull it off–tarragon, arugula, chives . . . Right now I have a bounty of perfectly ripe, juicy tomatoes from my home garden (golden cherries) plus a beautiful,
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What do you do with a cow’s head, anyway?

August 27, 2009 | Frank Bonanno

The chill air of this August morning made me want to cook a whole animal—pig, lamb, goat—doesn’t really matter. There’s something about fall that calls for sacrifice, celebration and feast. With that in mind, I’d like to share a recipe and brief thoughts on a movement. First, the recipe: Pâté de Tête / Brawn There
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The Evolution of a BLT

August 20, 2009 | Frank Bonanno

I’m going to sneak into the dining room at Mizuna in a couple of weeks–not as a line cook, and not as the proprietor, but at table tucked into the back and set up as a makeshift cooking station. I won’t sell it as a “Chef’s Table,” because revenue’s not what I’m after, and I
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Keep that chef away from the food

August 12, 2009 | Frank Bonanno

In this month’s Bon Appetit, Andrew Knowlton says high-visibility chefs should stay off the line and work the dining room. There’s such truth in that statement, but I’m back there cooking every week anyway — tossing pizza one night, different station, different restaurant the next (and so on)–disrupting the flow and the camaraderie and subtlety
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Salumi: A Dangerous Beauty

June 22, 2009 | Frank Bonanno

Wild boar arrived at Luca a couple of weeks ago, but it’s not going to be on the menu for at least three more months. That’s because we’re grinding it, seasoning it, packing it, hanging it, slowly, slowly, s l o w l y, turning it into finocetta and capocola. In the seven years we’ve
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