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French Scrambled Eggs

July 25, 2017 | Frank Bonanno

A Story I proposed to Jacqueline nearly 20 years ago just before we boarded the plane to France on a wine trip hosted by the awesome Mel Masters. It was truffle season, and the goal was to hit as many wineries and restaurants as humanly possible within the span of a week. At the time, being a vegetarian was a fairly novel life choice, and wherever we ate, when Jacqueline said she was a vegetarian, the chef would scramble her up some eggs, and serve them wet and fluffy and topped with freshly shaved truffles. Two meals a day, minimum, Jacqueline would get that bounty of gold and funk, and she wasn’t disappointed in the least. It’s still a favorite easy meal, and this recipe is roughly the way I cook them for her.

A note: Eggs puff up with steam. If you’ve ever made scrambled eggs without liquid, you know how flat and hard they become. If you don’t have cream, use whole milk. No whole milk? Use skim. No dairy? Use water. The steam makes the scramble. (I saw Martha Stewart speak in the fall about scrambling eggs with an espresso milk steamer   She said she steamed and ate five just that morning from the chickens in her yard. I can’t eat five eggs myself, and I can’t get my espresso steamer to cook them without making a big wet mess, but God bless Martha anyway. Five eggs. Man . . .) 

Another note: The flavor and texture of breakfast eggs are brought out over low, low heat. Start high to melt the oil then turn the heat way down (sometimes I turn it off) to cook the eggs.

French Scrambled Eggs

Serves 2

Ingredients

Baguette, sliced on the bias

2 Tablespoons butter

4 large eggs

Generous pinch kosher salt

2 grinds pepper

4 tablespoons cream

1 cup grated gruyere

Optional: good truffle oil, 1 teaspoon freshly chopped chives

Tools: Nonstick skillet, medium bowl, whisk, spoonula, 2 breakfast plates

 Process

  1. Toast the baguette slices to a light finish. Put two slices on each of two plates; set aside.
  2. Melt butter in a nonstick skillet over high heat.
  3. While butter melts, whisk the eggs, salt, pepper and cream until just mixed.
  4. Butter should be be bubbly. Reduce the heat to low, and pour eggs into middle of pan, letting them spread to the edges.
  5. Stir eggs, folding to the center, until eggs just begin to come together and little liquid remains.
  6. Fold in the cheese.
  7. Optional (see story), drizzle with a nice truffle oil and 1 teaspoon freshly clipped chives.
  8. Spoon eggs over slices of baguette. Enjoy with strong coffee and fresh juice.